Miniature terrain: photo tutorial for three-hour forests, part II

This is the second in a series of posts on how to create copses of forest terrain for D&D or miniature wargames. The first post in this series can be found here.

Step 7. Drybrushing.

To give the appearance of greater contrast and depth to the ground surface, drybrush a coat of tan paint across the high points of the irregularities made by the sand. You can also highlight individual rocks with different colors of paint.

Step 8.  Static Grass.

This step is completely optional, but it can make your ground cover look more realistic (and less boring). With a 1:1 solution of white PVA glue and water paint out some areas that would make for good grass patches. Sprinkle some static grass on the glue and tap off the excess.

Step 9.  Grass Flock.

Another completely optional step, but it does add character. With all of the irregularities in the sand, there are sure to be low spots that would be ideal for moss; if you put green “grass” flocking next to static grass, the flock looks like moss. We’ll put the “moss” where it seems to make sense.

Step 10.  Attach the Trees.

The last step is to attach the trees back to their bases. To help smooth the transitions between tree and base, I glued some moss growing up the tree trunks.

Here is the finished product:

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4 comments on “Miniature terrain: photo tutorial for three-hour forests, part II

  1. […] Post navigation ← Reverse engineering: using 4e adventure design techniques to create a 1e scenario Miniature terrain: photo tutorial for three-hour forests, part II → […]

  2. Michael says:

    Very nice. Me and the kid are gonna do this project. Quick and painless with as little or much detail as desired!

    • Alric says:

      Thank you, Sir. This is a bit heavier on the budget than some of the other methods out there, but it is easier. Thank you for your visit.

    • Alric says:

      And something else I learned the hard way – if you’re using superglue and get it on your skin, it will bond and you won’t be able to pull the glued areas apart; nail polish remover will dissolve superglue on skin if this happens to you or your kid.

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